A FATIMID GOLD ROUNDEL WITH PEARL SURROUND, 10TH-11TH CENTURY

A very elaborate gold roundel with river pearls and stone and glass inlays. The roundel is an exceptional product of a master jeweler from the period of the height of Fatimid craftsmanship during the height of their empire. The disc shows the virtuoso technique of the Fatimid jewelers in creating elaborate surfaces by using filigreed wires and globules alone without the need for a foil base to work on. The surface is then applied with six hemispherical appliqués and the central decorative motif of a raised Star of David, decorated with granulation, with garnet and glass inlays. Around the edge six tubular hoops guide a wire with river pearls threaded onto it. On the back we see the star off David design repeated, this time covered in granulation and a fleur-du-lis motif spaced within the recesses. Diameter: 5.7 cm and 1.2 cm. high. Weight: 55.6 gr.

CATALOGUE NOTE A similar roundel in the Metropolitan Museum is reckoned to have been an adornment for a headdress as seen on contemporary illustrations. The present piece has many motifs which point to it being Fatimid, notably the use of lines of filigreed globules used to frame the twisted wire spiraled elements at the front. The fact that this roundel is decorated at the back would not change the likely purpose of this specimen.

PROVENANCE: Privater collection, Belgium